One of the easiest ways to add more interest to a garden is to add plants with different colors, textures, shapes and sizes. Different textured plants can also help create an illusion of space and add "flavor" to any garden design.

Texture is frequently associated with foliage. However, the woody structure of a tree or shrub is also part of the texture. Fine texture is associated with small leaves and thin branches. Coarse texture is achieved with larger leaves and thicker, sparse branches.

Coarse textures are more appropriate for larger landscapes, while fine textures are more appropriate in a smaller landscape. A small area can be made to look larger by using finely textured plants, whereas coarsely textured plants make great accents in larger landscape designs.

Examples of coarse-textured plants would be aralia, hosta, loropetalum, sedum and lamb's ears. Examples of fine-textured plants would be artemisia, breath of heaven, ferns, fine line buckthorn, grevillea and lavender. You can add color to a garden by adding plants such as barberry, heavenly bamboo, heuchera or the new 'Tiger Eyes' sumac, which combines both texture and color.

You can create a greater sense of depth in your garden by placing darker colored, rough textured plants to the front of your planting areas and put light colored, fine textured plants towards the back. Also, remember to keep smaller growing plants in front so they won't be hidden by the taller ones. If you have the space, try to place textured plants in small groupings for extra impact.

Adding textures and elements of interest to your garden will create more visual and sensory experiences for you and your guests. And the more experiences, the more memorable your garden will be. But don't get too carried away. Try to limit yourself to two or three different colors or textures along with green for the perfect effect.

We have many unique plants that will stand out in any garden setting. Our staff of nursery professionals will be happy to show you their favorites and help you find the best choices for your garden.

Chrysanthemums are a mainstay of the fall garden. Pots of these colorful perennials really brighten up a porch, patio, or entryway.

They can also be used to decorate indoors; the fall colors are beautiful for holiday table settings. Mums come in a variety of types including daisy (single layer of petals), button mums (tiny spheres made up of dozens of petals), and spider mums (long arching petals with tips curved upwards). Yellow, rust, gold, bronze, and maroon, as well as pink, white, red, and lavender, are just some of the many exciting chrysanthemum colors.

Product Spotlight: Achla Rain Barrels

Achla Rain Catcher Barrels are the perfect way to water naturally and save water at the same time. Available in 50 Gal, 54 Gal and 75 Gal sizes, these rain barrels are constructed of durable, UV-stable polyethylene. A foolproof linking kit is included with every barrel, so you can add capacity as your garden expands!

Product Spotlight: Achla Compost Bins

Achla Compost bins are a great way to create nutritious and weed-free compost for your entire garden. Made from 100% recycled plastic, these attractive and functional bins have a 7 cu. ft. capacity and feature an easy access door and mixing fins to break up clumps. The heavy duty plastic is also rodent proof. Composting helps minimize landfill waste and will help to feed your plants naturally!

Autumn is a good time to prepare your lawn for the year ahead, and the best time to tackle any long-term improvements. Tasks such as raking out lawn debris, eradicating moss, feeding, and aerating will improve the quality of your lawn greatly if carried out on a yearly basis.

Over the years, grass clippings and debris form a "thatch" on the surface of your lawn. This affects growth of the grass and should be removed with a lawn rake. Raking also removes moss.

If grass growth is poor, aerate the lawn. You can do this by pushing the prongs of a fork about 15 cm (6 in) into the ground. Brush a soil improver into the holes made by the fork. Use sand or a mixture of fine soil and sand if the ground is poorly drained. Alternatively, use peat, a peat-substitute or very fine, well-rotted compost if the ground is sandy. Reseed as necessary; fall is an excellent time for reseeding.

If your lawn is in poor condition and needs reviving, apply an autumn lawn feed, such as Weed n Feed or Winterizer. It is essential that you use one formulated for autumn use, as spring and summer feeds will contain too much nitrogen. If the grass contains a lot of moss, apply a moss killer. Use one recommended for autumn use--the mixture known as lawn sand, sometimes used to kill moss, contains too much nitrogen.

You can (and should) tidy an uneven edge whenever it's necessary, but doing a full job of it in autumn will relieve the pressure at busier times of the year. Hold a half-moon edger against a board held in position with your feet.

With summer here, garden herbs are kicking into high gear, producing lots of pleasing, aromatic foliage that is great for cooking and potpourris. Freshly harvested leaves are wonderful for cooking, but you might want to preserve some to use later in the year or to create sachets that will fill your home with wonderful scents.

There are two ways to air-dry your crop. The first is to hang it up. With large-leafed herbs such as basil, rosemary, and sage, snip off the leafy stems, then tie the cut ends together with string and hang the bundle upside down in a warm, dry place (out of direct sunlight) with good air circulation. The herbs should be dry and crisp in two to three weeks. You can then strip the leaves off the stems and store them in airtight containers for later use. This method is also a great way to dry lavender.

The second way to dry herbs is to spread them out to dry. With fine-leafed herbs such as oregano and thyme, simply remove the foliage from stems and spread the leaves on a cookie sheet or piece of clean window screen and set in a warm, dry, airy place away from direct sun. Stir them up every few days to turn them over. Once the leaves feel crisp, you can store them in an airtight container for later use.

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We recommend bone meal at the time of planting, then applying a balanced bulb food once the foliage appears above the soil line in late winter/early spring.

There are a couple of reasons for this. Nitrogen can burn the actual bulb, which only needs the phosphorus and potash from bone meal in order to stimulate rooting. But once the bulb is sending out a stem, it needs nitrogen to become strong so it won't bend over from the weight of the flowers that it sets. This is especially important for bulbs with large heavy flowers, such as tulips, ranunculus, and hyacinth.

It's also important to dig your holes or trenches a little deeper than the bulb needs to be, applying some bone meal, then a little more soil so the bulb doesn't sit directly on the food but has access to the food as it sends out roots (got to give those roots some incentive to stretch).

Earwigs are the brownish/black insects (about ¾ inch long) with pointed pincers on the rear of their abdomens. Earwigs' lifelong pursuit is to be active members of the insect cleanup crew of the garden. They chew up plant debris and turn it into humus. For this job, earwigs are considered a beneficial insect. You rarely see this insect out in the open, but rather under leaves, under low growing foliage plants or in a woodpile. Creating humus is part of the earwig "career" that is a positive thing for any garden.

However, they also have a liking for new tender foliage and this is what gets them into trouble with gardeners. When they eat tender foliage, they are considered a pest.

There are a number of different earwig management techniques. Earwigs like dark, damp places in the yard. In these locations, place rolled up newspapers or low-sided cans coated with oil. The earwigs will crawl inside of either of these traps, and you can simply throw them away. If, however, you have an infestation of earwigs eating too much of the new foliage, you may find it necessary to apply an earwig bait like Bonide Eight Insect Control. A follow-up application two weeks later usually takes care of any stragglers.

Ultimately, the best way to prevent earwig infestations is to keep the garden clean and remove potential earwig hiding spots. A few here and there are more helpful than harmful to your gardens, but if they're making a meal out of your prized plants don't hesitate to pull out the bait!