One other quick note: Butterflies also like puddles. Provide a small water source in your garden with a shallow birdbath or buried bucket filled with stones and then filled with water.

Did you know that Mosquito Hill Nature Center in New London, Wisconsin has a Butterfly House open from July through the end of August?

For more information, go to: http://www.co.outagamie.wi.us/Parks/MH_butterfly-house.htm

How many of us remember growing up, lying under a shade tree with our back against the trunk, chewing on a piece of grass, reading a book or just sleeping?

In addition to great memories, trees bring beauty to all landscapes, and the right tree provides shade to your home, creating a cooling insulation from hot summer days. Evergreen or deciduous, many shade trees also have spectacular flower color, while others are better known for their foliage color or texture interest.

When planting your tree, consider how it might provide the maximum shade effect upon your home. A shade tree planted on the east side of your home will block the heat from the morning sun. Planting on the west and/or southwest side of your home shields the hot afternoon sun. And finally, a tree planted on the south side of your home can provide year-round sunblock protection. All three examples will help to keep your home cooler in the summertime.

If you select a deciduous tree, you will benefit in the winter from the opposite sun shielding effect. Minus the foliage, the sun's rays can shine through the empty branches and help you warm the inside of your home. You certainly can't argue with that!

Along with the energy benefits, shade trees provide beauty to your landscape year-round. They offer habitats to birds, squirrels and other backyard urban creatures. Trees increase the value of our homes and the beauty of our neighborhoods. They also give back oxygen to our environment.

If you choose a deciduous tree, pick one with majestic winter form.

When you plant your shade tree, do not plant it too close to your home, patio or walls. Remember, the trees that we have mentioned all grow to heights of 30-50 feet and taller, which means they will also have a good spread and substantial root systems. So come on in, and our staff of nursery experts will help you pick out the perfect shade tree(s) for your home. Then get ready to plop yourself under your new tree, cross your legs, pull your hat down over your eyes and ZZZZZZZ.
 

Fungus diseases: If your lawn is developing areas that yellow and then turn brown, and you cannot find any insect pests, then you may consider the possibility of a fungus disease, particularly if you have been watering a lot, or watering at night. Closely examine the grass blades to see if they appear to be rotting off where they're attached to the stem. If so, then a fungus disease is a good possibility. Of course, if you see mushrooms, you definitely have fungus!

A healthy lawn can fight off enemies such as fungi, weeds, and insect pests. Keeping your turf grass cut at the correct height and applying water at proper times will go a long way in fighting off lawn pests. Most turf diseases thrive under certain conditions that include moisture and temperature, and nitrogen supply. That is why you will notice that diseases appear during certain seasons. Aside from extreme weather conditions, improper watering, too much or too little fertilizer, improper mowing height, soil compaction, uneven grading, accumulated thatch, overuse of lawn pesticides, or any combination of these may make your lawn more susceptible.

• Remove excess thatch and do not leave clippings in the area affected.
• Avoid light, frequent watering. Water only in the early morning, water deeply, and water as infrequently as possible.
• Mow frequently at recommended heights.
• Aerate compacted soils.
• Fertilize only with the proper fertilizer for your turf type, and follow timing and amount directions exactly--both too much and too little nitrogen can encourage fungus (of different types).
• If the fungus is appearing in a "low spot" where water tends to sit, build up the area or consider a water-loving turf alternative.
• Plant disease-resistant grasses.
• Top-dress with a thin layer of an organic mulch, such as Father Dom's Duck's Doo Compost. In addition to building healthy soil, there are also many beneficial microbes and naturally occurring substances in organic mulching materials that suppress disease organisms.

Curative

The problem with using fungicides for lawn diseases is that by the time the disease is recognized and the cause identified, the infection has often run its course. The damage is done and no amount of fungicide can restore the damaged grass. However, spraying the grass in the area with a fungicide can kill existing fungus and help prevent further spreading. In the long run, though, the lawn care measures you adopt (topdressing, watering and fertilizing properly, mowing at the correct height, aerating, and reducing thatch) more effectively address present and future disease problems in most lawn disease situations.

Spider mites are common pest problems on many plants around yards and gardens. Spider mites, like all mites, are not insects. They are related to spiders and therefore fall into the class of arachnids, which have eight legs, not six.

These tiny creatures cause injury to foliage as they feed, bruising the cells with their small, whip-like mouthparts and ingesting the sap. Damage to the foliage gives a speckled appearance to the damaged tissue sites. They also leave a cottony web material between leaf stems.

Spider mite infestation tends to occur during periods of dry, hot weather and hit plants that have not been well watered. A good lesson to learn from this would be to keep your plants healthy and watered at all times, especially when hot, dry weather strikes your gardens.

But if you still have spider mites, even after your best precautions, what can you do? Because spider mites are not insects, insecticides will not work on them; and worse, such a spray will just kill the beneficial insects coming to the plant to eat the spider mites.

Fortunately, the spider mite, like other pesky bugs on our plants, has several natural predators. One important one is the ladybug larva. Other less well-known predators of the spider mite are pirate bugs and predatory thrips.

Another easy physical control is simply to spray them off the foliage with water. Sound familiar? That is also a treatment for aphids, mealybugs and other garden insect pests. If the natural predators haven't come to the rescue, or the improvement of plant health and water control techniques is not solving the spider mite problem, talk to one of us and we will further direct you to a spray oil or miticide product. For example, if you have mites on your tomatoes, sulphur dust will work to kill the spider mites.

But remember, if you decide to use an insecticide or miticide control, first double check for the beneficial insects coming in to gobble up the mites!

How often should I water my potted plants?

Answer:

Outdoor potted plants tend to dry out more quickly and require more water than plants planted in the landscape. This is because potting soils are lighter in composition and less compact than garden soil. The size of the container also limits the water holding capacity. Watering potted plants once a day, or even twice daily, may be necessary--especially if the weather turns hot and windy or your containers are in full sunlight.

Indoors, most potted plants tend to be over-watered. They generally don't need to be watered more than once or twice per week.

The important thing is to check moisture levels often. If the potting soil appears pale or cracked, or feels dry below the soil's surface, then it's time to water. If plants are wilted and droopy, (or just in a plain old bad mood) then they're already seriously stressed and in need of immediate watering and potentially a trip to a therapist.

The use of a moisture meter can be very helpful. If you don't own a moisture meter, get one--it's better than using your fingers to check, and you'll cut way down on your manicure bills.

The idea is to water thoroughly but allow enough time between waterings for the soil to begin drying out. If the potting soil remains soggy for too long, air will be forced away from the roots and your plants may suffocate or drown.

Don't let plants sit in standing water. If a saucer is used under a container, make sure that it does not remain wet for more than an hour or two after watering. Poor drainage and damp soil conditions favor root-killing disease fungi that can develop as root rot and cause the plant to die.

If a potted plant gets too dry, stand the container in a bucket of water so that it can soak water right up into the soil. This is a better method than watering with a hose or can; in that case, the water will run straight through and around the dry soil where it has shrunk away from the side of the pot.

Espoma Tones

For the past 70 years, Espoma Tones have defined the naturally beautiful garden. From the famous Holly-Tone to their newest product, Flower-Tone, each Tone is a complex blend of long lasting natural ingredients, fortified with fast acting enriched minerals.

Each Tone has been carefully developed in conjunction with nursery and horticultural professionals to produce outstanding flowers, shrubs and vegetables. These wonderful plant foods contain no fillers, sludge or inert ingredients. They contain all 15 essential nutrients for beautiful and healthy gardens.

The long-lasting natural organic ingredients break down slowly for steady and continuous feeding, while adding organic matter to the soil. And every Espoma Tone product is low in salts so it won't burn. Best of all they are safe for people, pets and the environment.