Full sun, full shade, part sun, part shade. How’s a gardener supposed to know and understand the best place in the garden for these plants?

This determination can be an interesting proposition! Let us begin with the definitions of the terms. Then we will digress into the nuances of gardens.

Exposure refers to sun, shade, part sun, part shade, etc. Information tags on plants from the nursery will indicate which of these exposures is recommended for that particular plant.

Full Sun or Sun: the plant grows at its optimum with full sun all or most of the day. An hour of shade in the morning or afternoon would be o.k.

Part Sun/Part Shade: the plant needs shade for about 3 hours of the hottest time of the day. It also means that a plant may succeed in full sun in more northern areas that do not get extremely hot sun.

Full Shade/Shade: the plant prefers little to no direct sun. This exposure can be provided on the north side of the house or under a large dense-foliage tree.

Now that you have the definitions (as provided by the Sunset Western Garden Book), don’t be surprised to learn that there are exceptions to the rules.

The effects of full sun on a plant are quite different in cooler and warmer climates. Full sun in a very hot climate may be too much for the same plant that loves full sun in a cooler climate. That plant may need to be in part shade or even indirect sunlight in the hotter climate. Conversely, a plant that requires full shade in warmer climates may grow quite nicely in partial shade, if the climate is cool.

Physical structures can contribute to these exposure issues. Think about where in your garden this new plant is located. If you plant near a white or almost white building, along a concrete sidewalk, a plant that may normally take full sun may find that it is too hot and bright in this location. Light-colored buildings, light-colored sidewalks, and pools all reflect much light and generate more heat that might prove to be too much for some plants.

Alternatively, if your white house, light-colored walk and pool are in full shade, that same reflected light could allow you to grow otherwise sun-loving plants in the part shade or shade.

What happens if you grow a plant without following the exposure recommendation?

Flowering plants or variegated plants that love sun but are grown in the shade may not flower to their full potential. The variegation may revert to a solid green color, and the plants may become leggy and less attractive than they could be.

Plants that love shade but are grown in the sun may wilt, especially in the warmest time of the day; flower color may fade; and foliage color may bleach and dry out. The plant will live under constant stress.

There are very good reasons for the exposure recommendation on each plant tag, but many plants have built-in flexibility in a garden. Look around your neighborhood and take note of the light exposure for the plants you like. Get to know your own garden and discover whether or not you can slightly bend these rules. And above all, trial and error is the best way to learn! Happy Gardening!

• A blend of composted fir bark and forest humus fortified with 15% chicken manure, worm castings, bat guano and kelp meal.

• pH balanced with dolomite and oyster shell lime.

• An all purpose pre-fertilized planting and garden soil amendment.

• Excels as a nutrient-rich top dressing and mulch.

Hostas are indispensable foliage plants for shade gardens (zones 3-8). Goodness, that description just doesn’t say enough--they are not only indispensable, they are absolutely beautiful! The broad leaves are pleated or puckered, and the many different varieties offer a large range of colors, color combinations, sizes and shapes.

In one garden bed you can have a front row of low-growing hostas only 6 inches tall surrounded by other varieties that grow up to 3 feet or taller. What a dramatic effect in your garden!

Hostas help you create a lush multi-green foliage, woodland look in your backyard. Plant them together with rhododendrons, astilbe, sweet violets, impatiens or other shade plants of your choice.

And fabulous foliage is not their only attribute! Hostas also send up beautiful plumes/spikes of white and lavender blooms in summer.

Hostas love moist, humus rich soils, although they can adapt to dry soil conditions. They love part to full shade and filtered sun. If exposed to full sun, they will not perform as well, and will not have the beautiful foliage colors that we desire.

Plant using a good planting mix. As your hostas become established, you can divide them. Late summer is the best time to do this.

Yes, there are a couple of pests that haunt hostas everywhere: snails and slugs. Frequent scattering of a slug and snail killer with a good bud and bloom fertilizer will do the trick for you.

So what are you waiting for? It’s time to plant hostas in your gardens. We've got a great selection here at Oconomowoc Landscape Supply & Garden Center. Come in to see us soon. We'll meet you in the shade area!

Product Spotlight: Osmocote Plant Foods

Osmocote plant foods make it easy to take care of your garden. Bring vibrant color to a flower bed. Grow mouthwatering veggies at home. Nurture plants to be strong and hardy. Osmocote makes it easy to keep the garden growing all season long. We stock four types of Osmocote Plant foods for every garden need:

Osmocote Outdoor & Indoor Smart Release Plant Food is specially formulated for plants growing in enclosed spaces such as pots, window boxes and hanging baskets.

Osmocote Vegetable & Bedding Smart Release Plant Food is ideal for perennials and vegetable gardens.

Osmocote Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Smart Release Plant Food is perefct for acid-loving plants such as azalea, camellia, dogwoods, rhodendrons, ferns and evergreens.

Osmocote Plus Multipurpose Plant Food is an all-in-one solution for the serious gardener. It works with virtually all plant varieties and growing conditions.

Come in and pick up your Osmocote today, and discover how easy it is to keep your garden happy!

There is just not much good one can say about thrips. They attack ornamental landscape plants, spread viruses, and simply make the foliage ugly and your plant sicker than it was. Many pests “move in” and make themselves at home when the health of a plant is poor. Thrips are no exception. In fact, they are most likely to attack a plant that is too dried out--especially if the foliage is dirty.

Thrips are microscopic and look like elongated black flies. They may be tiny, but the damage that they cause is not. And that damage is quite characteristic, and easily identified. The foliage becomes silvery or bronze and stippled, because thrips are both chewers and suckers. There can be a blackish deposit from their presence, and often the plant will develop sooty mold as well.

The natural predators, i.e., beneficial insects to thrips include parasitoid wasps, soldier beetles, and green lacewings and their larvae. Spraying with insecticidal soaps is another control mechanism. If their presence is minimal, cut, remove, and destroy the infested foliage.

If necessary, other insecticides can be used to treat an infected plant. Talk to one of our salespersons to determine not only the right product but also the right time in the season for treatment.

Remember--during hot, dry weather, make sure that your plants have the appropriate amount of water and fertilizers to keep them healthy.

Answer:

Sod lawn can be installed most anytime of the year, as long as the ground isn’t muddy (saturated with water) or frozen. As a general rule of thumb, we recommend allowing four to six weeks between planting and the first hard frost.

With seed, you have distinct seasons. In the spring, you can plant from after the last major frost until temperatures consistently go above 85 degrees. Then late summer to autumn, while temperatures are cooling but the soil is still warm. Again, allow for at least four to six weeks between seeding and the first hard frost.

Another key in both situations is to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out between waterings. Normally we recommend watering 3-4 times daily the first two weeks (or until you see germination on seed), then twice daily for week three, once daily for week four, every second day during week five and every second to third day thereafter.

Once the lawn is fully established, water once to the point of runoff (full soil saturation). Measure the amount of time and that should become the time you water each watering day (not each day). Most fescue lawns are happy with every third day watering while bluegrass might need every other day during summer.

Product Spotlight: Radius Garden Tools

If you're tired of using the same old garden tools that leave your hands and muscles aching, then let us introduce you to Radius Garden Tools. We believe the truly advanced ergonomic design will help make gardening a more enjoyable and rewarding experience.

Each tool features the Natural Radius Grip, which maximizes your power and comfort while minimizing hand and wrist stress. The sleek, lightweight, aluminum/magnesium multi-functional blades have an exceptional strength to weight ratio.

All of these tools feature high-performance, non-latex handles that provide for a secure and comfortable grip, whether wet or dry. We believe that once you try these products, you will never go back to traditional tools!